Ulysse Nardin has always pioneered material innovation, particularly incorporating silicon into mechanical watchmaking. The brand's exploration of silicon began with a radical departure from tradition, and now, with this creation, it embraces the material not only as a functional component but also as an artistic expression. The Blast Free Wheel Marquetry Silicon Green watch masterfully interprets this dual identity, expertly blending advanced mechanical engineering with decorative craftsmanship, embracing the technological age. Utilizing this material, well-known in microchips and semiconductors, it creates a high-performance movement and a beautifully crafted dial, establishing a direct connection between high technology and fine watchmaking.
Ulysse Nardin's heritage is rooted in the pursuit of precision timekeeping. Its history began in 1846 with the production of marine chronometers, essential for naval navigation. By crafting robust and reliable instruments, Ulysse Nardin earned a reputation for exceptional performance and guided the company's development for over a century. However, the advent of the 21st century marked a pivotal turning point. The launch of the Freak in 2001 marked a major shift in Swiss watchmaking. This watch, for the first time, incorporated silicon components into its movement, a move initially met with skepticism in an industry steeped in traditional metals. Ulysse Nardin's bold exploration of silicon's properties—antimagnetic resistance, resistance to temperature fluctuations, low friction, and flexibility—ultimately proved visionary.
This early adoption gave Ulysse Nardin a significant head start. While other brands later invested heavily in developing their own silicon technology, Ulysse Nardin had already refined its process and even acquired the ability to produce silicon components in-house. This led to further innovations, such as the patented DiamonSil technology, which coats silicon components with a layer of synthetic diamonds for enhanced durability. This commitment propelled Ulysse Nardin from an industry marginalist to a recognized leader in advanced materials science, demonstrating that traditional mechanical watchmaking could not only coexist with modern technology but also be significantly enhanced by it. The Blast Free Wheel Marquetry watch, building on Ulysse Nardin's rich history, showcases the brand's mature and confident use of silicon, a material it itself helped pioneer.
The most striking and striking feature of this watch is its dial, a canvas that unfolds as a unique form of artistic expression. It employs the ancient art of marquetry, which involves assembling small, precisely cut pieces of material to form a larger image or pattern. Ulysse Nardin eschews traditional wood or shell for 103 thin slices of single-crystal silicon. Each slice, a vibrant emerald green, is laser-cut and meticulously arranged by hand to create a textured, seamless surface. The pattern itself, composed of green and silver-gray lines arranged in geometric shapes, is a direct nod to the aesthetics of printed circuit boards and a clear visual connection to silicon's dominant role in the world of electronics.
This design choice is no accident. It poetically blends two of silicon's primary uses in the modern world: its electrical conductivity in electronics and its dynamic properties in mechanical timekeeping. To further enhance visual depth and complexity, the silicon slices feature either matte or polished finishes, allowing light to interact dynamically with the dial. The entire composition is more than just a backdrop; it is an integral part of the watch's mechanical and philosophical identity. It celebrates the inherent beauty and technical significance of the material, transforming the dial into a modern mosaic that is both a technical achievement and a work of art.
Beneath this exquisite surface lies the brand's in-house UN-176 movement, designed to balance visual impact with mechanical precision. Central to its design is its "Free Wheel" construction, which creates the illusion that its key components appear to float in space above the marquetry dial, unconnected to the mainplate. This skeletonization reveals the gear train, barrel, and power-reserve indicator, offering a glimpse into the heart of the movement. This almost mysterious arrangement invites closer inspection to understand how energy is transmitted between these seemingly unrelated components.
The flying tourbillon at 6 o'clock rotates as if suspended in mid-air, unsupported by an upper bridge. Composed of 45 individual components, this mechanism is designed to counteract the effects of gravity on the regulating organ, thereby enhancing the watch's accuracy. The tourbillon cage, balance spring, pallet fork, and escape wheel are all crafted from silicon, leveraging its lightness and low friction to enhance the efficiency of this complex regulating system.
A key technical highlight of the UN-176 caliber is the Ulysse Nardin anchor escapement, a constant-force mechanism that represents a significant advancement in chronometric stability. In traditional watch movements, the mainspring generates maximum torque when fully wound and gradually decreases when unwound, leading to fluctuations in accuracy. The constant-force escapement solves this problem by providing a continuous pulse of energy to the balance wheel, regardless of the mainspring's force level. The Ulysse Nardin system achieves this through the use of a flexible silicon sheet that absorbs and stores energy, then releases it in a precisely controlled manner. This innovative use of silicon's natural elasticity ensures a stable rate throughout the power reserve, a feature that earned it a GPHG award and ranks it among the most advanced escapements in modern watchmaking.
The manually wound UN-176 movement comprises 249 parts and oscillates at a frequency of 2.5 Hz, or 18,000 vibrations per hour. This carefully designed, low frequency allows for more efficient energy utilization and contributes to the movement's impressive 72-hour power reserve. A practical power-reserve indicator, discreetly integrated into the dial at 4 o'clock, clearly displays the remaining energy. Every detail of the movement has been meticulously designed, prioritizing not only performance but also visual appeal, transforming the functional elements of timekeeping into a key aesthetic feature.
The entire mechanism is housed within the distinctive Blast case, a platform reserved by Ulysse Nardin for its most modern and architectural designs. Crafted from 18K white gold, the 45mm-diameter case features complex geometric facets, sharp angles, and a vibrant interplay of satin-brushed and polished finishes. This modern, yet slightly aggressive architecture provides a sturdy framework for the intricate mechanics and artistry displayed on the dial. Despite its substantial thickness, the case measures only 12.4mm, maintaining a wear-resistant profile.
One of the most striking features of the watch case is its "box-style" sapphire crystal. Rather than being flush with the bezel, this crystal is carved from a single block of sapphire and rises above the case, forming a series of transparent walls. This construction offers a panoramic view of the dial and suspended movement components from both the side and top. It transforms the case into a miniature gallery, allowing the wearer to appreciate the depth and three-dimensionality of the UN-176 caliber from every angle. The skeletonized sapphire crystal caseback further showcases the movement, while its matte silicon full bridge continues the watch's core material theme.
The cool metallic sheen of the white gold case contrasts with the vibrant emerald green of the silicon marquetry dial, creating a strong aesthetic tension. The industrial feel of the case structure complements the organic complexity of the dial pattern, resulting in a design that is both futuristic and exquisitely crafted. This watch stands out on the wrist, embodying the brand's confident and forward-thinking approach to luxury watch design.
The watch is enhanced by a gray rubber strap that seamlessly blends with the sharp lugs of the case. The choice of rubber, a modern, functional material, provides a comfortable and secure fit, while its neutral gray color draws the focus to the case and dial. The strap is secured with an 18k white gold folding clasp, perfectly complementing the case and the overall design. This strap underscores its identity as a contemporary timepiece, designed for comfort despite its complex mechanism and precious metal.
Ulysse Nardin's Blast Free Wheel Marquetry Silicon Green watch embodies the brand's past, present, and future. It upholds a legacy of precision craftsmanship while showcasing its mastery of modern materials. This watch demonstrates that innovation is not limited to performance metrics but can be a source of profound artistic expression. Using silicon for both its movement and embellishments, Ulysse Nardin offers a complete and captivating interpretation of the role of technology in the evolution of traditional craftsmanship.
Positioned as a highly exclusive piece, this watch is limited to just 10 pieces worldwide and available only in the United States. This exclusivity recognizes the United States' status as a global center of technological innovation, particularly Silicon Valley. Its price is on demand, a common practice for such a complex and rare watch, placing it at the top of the haute horlogerie collection. This watch is not designed for the mass market, but rather for discerning individuals who appreciate the fusion of advanced mechanical engineering, handcraftsmanship, and a bold, modern aesthetic.
Case: 18k white gold, satin-finished and polished. Diameter: 45 mm, total thickness: 12.4 mm. Water-resistant to 30 meters. Features a box-type sapphire crystal and an open sapphire caseback.
Movement: Manufacture UN-176 caliber, manually wound. Equipped with a flying tourbillon with the Ulysse Anchor constant-escapement. Frequency: 2.5 Hz (18,000 vph), 72-hour power reserve, 249 components, and 23 jewels. The escape wheel, pallet fork, and balance spring are all made of silicon.
Dial: Green silicon marquetry with 103 matte and polished bars. Power reserve indicator at 4 o'clock. Gray hands filled with Super-LumiNova.
Strap: Gray rubber strap with an 18K white gold folding clasp.
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20.10.2025 05:53 (zuletzt bearbeitet: 20.10.2025 05:53)
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